Sainsmart Genmitsu 4040

Fully assembled, ready to go! Can’t beat it for the money! Ordered a much larger machine and need to sell this to help pay for it! 😊 Nearly new 4040-Pro with some nice upgrades: • A basically new Makita RT0701c Router (upgraded – See below) • Genmitsu 65mm adapter to run a Makita trim router • Genmitsu Y-Axis dust baffles • Genmitsu Offline controller (Never used, I used Candle on a PC, this was a backup) • Solid State Relay wired in (Software/offline controller can turn on the router) • Custom Delrin shim/flat bearing (Delrin is a slippery plastic, one step under Teflon) … It sits behind the Z axis to prevent the weight of the router from flexing it (makes a huge difference in Z Axis stiffness). • 3D Printed holder for the Z-probe so it can stay plugged in but not get in the way • 2 - 3D printed dust boots (setup for 2.5” vac hose) – One traditional with brushes, one that does a good job without brushes so you can see the bit cutting (my preferred one) … Both sized for 2.5” shopvac hose. • 2 - 3D printed hexagon spacers for under the spoil board (gets rid of the downward flex) Selling for basically half what I paid. Here are new prices: Genmitsu 4040-Pro – New - $600 Genmitsu Offline controller – New - $45 Genmitsu Dust rails – New - $40 Delrin to make the shim -- $25 SSR-40DA Solid State Relay with heat sink -- $12 Dustboots <shrug> – Plastic + magnets + brushes + time = no idea 😊 Makita RT0701c Router – New - $135 Upgraded bearings for Makita -- $35 Cut to size Waste board (+1 extra) - $20 😊 _______ As I mentioned, the Makita RT0701c router included has been upgraded. Makita switched bearing vendors during covid and started using cheap bearings. Some work ok, other routers get really hot. Makita doesn’t warranty them for long use so they don’t care if it gets hot and fails, they won’t cover bearing failure due to overheating and will claim they aren’t made for that use, which is true with the crap CW bearings they used. Lol My brand-new Makita, running at any speed without even cutting anything, the collet would get too hot to touch after 5-10 minutes. I replaced the upper and lower bearings with much better-quality ones. A Timken lower bearing and SKF upper. For example, the Timken bearing basically has 12x less runout (more precision) than the CW bearing, also has more clearance internally so as they warm up, the thermal expansion doesn’t cause extra friction, leading to more heat, more expansion, more friction, till failure.